Why are antique bathroom fixtures preferable to new?

By comparison to anything available today, an antique basin will be unique. You buy antiques for the story they tell, the quality of the craftsmanship or manufacture and the patination. All antique and reclaimed bathroom pieces are full of history, beautifully made and have a look that cannot be replicated by anything made new. They are also green. By choosing a reclaimed bathroom you are doing a little bit to save carbon emissions created by the manufacture and transport of the new equivalent.

What should be considered when designing and sourcing a reclaimed bathroom?

Most antique and reclaimed pieces can be incorporated into a modern home. However, items may come from different periods and countries, so it’s a good idea to choose a style and period and use similar-aged items together. Think about space and start with the bath. These come in all shapes and sizes. If you take a bath to relax with an aperitif, then the tub you require will be different to one that’s comfortable to sit up in and read your favourite magazine. WC pans with high-level cisterns are not only elegant in any bathroom but can also save space. Basins with stands or pedestals are useful if you don’t have solid walls.

What kind of reclaimed fixtures are available?

Antique sanitaryware will date from the 1880s, but items from the 1930s to the 1950s will be the most commonly found at salvage yards and specialist dealers. Be aware that the older an item is the more expensive it is likely to be. There’s a huge range of items to choose from in terms of colour, decoration and material. Slipper, bateau or double-ended baths are mainly from Europe and may be harder to find than baths with tap holes at the end. Decorated Victorian items are available but hard to find in good condition. Taps and other fittings are readily available, but shower fittings are hard to find.

Will they need to be restored?

Condition is key. Bathrooms and cloakrooms need to be practical spaces and so it’s important that any reclaimed pieces are functional. A specialist dealer will restore items prior to sale. However, if you buy unrestored items, they will need some restoration. Ensure that all taps and other brass is removed prior to any work being carried out and that any resurfacing is done by a specialist prior to installation.

What needs to be considered in terms of plumbing in older items?

The Victorians invented modern plumbing and exported it around the world. The vast majority of pieces will conform to modern standard sizes as these have never changed. Plumbers will often suggest that you cannot get parts for old cisterns, taps and so on, but this is not true. It’s possible to get most parts for most items, or an alternative. There are some items which will not conform to modern sizes and will require a specialist to adapt them. Most antique water supplies were gravity fed and ran at a lower pressure to our modern domestic water supply; an antique tap may not cope with this without an overhaul, but most can be made to be functional.

What about aftercare?

Limescale build-up is the worst thing for resurfaced baths and taps, so it’s important to replace washers in dripping taps and dry resurfaced baths after use. In areas of hard water, I’d recommend fitting a water softener. Most modern bathroom cleaners are non-abrasive and can be used for most surfaces, but check the label.

glasgowarchitecturalsalvage.co.uk

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Outdoor rooms are growing in popularity and, as someone who’s ridden this trend with fairy lights on her heels, I can let you in on the downside of it – the rain! This year, though, I’m on it. I’m going to be weather-ready. Firstly, no outdoor oasis is complete without a daybed and I know from experience that I’m useless at treating wood every year, so it needs to be metal. Secondly, the mattress must be waterproof. This led me down an Amazon and Facebook Marketplace rabbit hole and by the end I had purchased an IKEA metal daybed for £30, found a free single mattress, bought a rubber covering to encase the mattress (£8 from Amazon) and purchased a bottle of Polyvine Heavy Duty Extreme Varnish which is waterproof and has UV protection. This will be used to waterproof my cover and stop it fading. Not a bad hour’s work. Now just to create that fitted cover…

1 Take the measurements of your mattress, including the depth of the sides, and add about 4cm to each side for seam allowance, then cut your fabric to size (A).

2 On each of the four corners, measure and mark out a square to the depth of your mattress, plus the 4cm seam allowance – in my case this was 19cm (B). This is to create your fitted corners. With right sides facing, bring the two marked lines of the square together to create a diagonal crease. Stitch down from the top corner of the square, following your marked lines, then trim the excess fabric (C and D). Repeat for all corners.

3 To create the casing for the elastic, just fold over enough of an allowance that you could fit a pen easily through. Stitch all the way around the sides, but leave an opening to slide the elastic in (E).

4 Using about 3 metres of elastic (I ended up having to join some), attach the end to something that can be threaded through the casing. For instance, knitting needles, empty biros, safety pins or a small screwdriver (F).

5 Start threading your elastic through the casing, pushing the gathers back as you go. Make sure the end of the elastic is secure and doesn’t disappear, as it will mean starting all over again. Either pin it or use a safety pin. Once it’s threaded all the way around, knot the ends (G) and stitch the opening closed. For added protection, stitch a line either side of the knotted elastic, just in case it breaks (H).

6 Slip the cover onto the mattress and balance it on something you can get good access to all the way around. Pour some of the varnish into a spray bottle and add some water to make it easier to use (image I). Spray all over the cover, using a brush to work it in (J and K). Give the seams on the corners extra attention. Repeat two or three times, letting each coat dry in between.

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Chintz: what a wonderful word. For me it invokes memories of bedrooms from the 1980s that were kitted out from top to toe in Laura Ashley and frills. For others the word implies something that’s a bit cheap or tacky. However, the contemporary version is anything but cheap. Brands such as House of Hackney lead the charge with their strong patterns and sumptuous floral designs. My favourite is the Artemis range, inspired by Diana Vreeland’s ‘garden in hell’ room in her famous New York apartment. This luxury comes at a price though, with lampshades costing anywhere from £375 upwards. Which, if you can afford that, go for it. But if, like me, your purse strings pull tight at the mere thought, read on – and I will show you how to make one at a fraction of the price.

What you’re looking for is a hard shade. It will feel like cardboard, when in fact it’s a sticky-backed PVC fire-retardant lining with fabric stuck to it. It’s great to find one with scalloped edges as this lends itself to the overall look. That said, fringes and trims make everything look amazing, so if a straight edge is all you’ve got, so be it. I find the best places to unearth these shades are charity shops and car-boot sales; eBay tends to be too expensive.

Once your shade has been sourced it’s time to figure out what you’ll cover it with. Think outside the box; this time I’ve used leftover Liberty fabric but in the past wallpaper, old dresses, wrapping paper and scraps of vintage fabric have worked well.

Step 1

Start by pulling off the trim (Image x). If by chance it doesn’t want to play, use a hairdryer to warm the glue up slightly. Next, carefully ease off the panels so they remain the same shape, but don’t worry about frayed edges, as these will get covered. You’re now left with a frame and eight panels. Now give the frame a scrub.

Step 2

To avoid waste, we’re going to reuse the old panels. The outside of the panels is now going to become the inside, so I decided to zhuzh up the floral design on mine by colouring over the design with a set of Sharpies, reminiscent of the Artemis range I adore (Image x).

Step 3

Turn the panels over and spray them with an adhesive (Image x). Arrange the panels sticky-side down on your chosen fabric and cut around each one (Image x).

Step 4

The next stage is to rebuild the shade, with the original outside on the inside. You’ll need some thin double-sided sticky tape and a glue gun. All the outside edges of your frame will need to be taped (Image x).

Step 5

Once completely covered, start positioning the panels around your shade, making sure you press them down firmly (Image x). For any edges not sticking down properly just add more tape, as these seams will be covered in trim.

Step 5

Heat up the glue gun and start gluing trim along the vertical seams (eBay is a good place to buy trims and fringes). Next glue the top edge, and then your fringe along the bottom. Finally, glue the last bit of trim over your exposed fringe edge, to create a neat and professional finish (Image x).

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Utter the phrase ‘shabby chic’ and the reaction often garners the same response as ‘curtain pelmet’ or ‘avocado bathroom’. Strange really, when not 10 years ago old-looking, cream furniture was de rigueur. Maybe we’ve seen too many painted ‘Live Love Laugh’ wooden signs, but creating that distressed chippy look was the beginning of something new – furniture upcycling.

However, even now just the term ‘upcycling’ can conjure up more shock than chic. Carrie Webb, sustainable furniture designer, agrees: ‘The word “upcycling” has always been problematic. It’s a perfectly good term in itself and very accurate as it describes how we are elevating the piece from what it was previously, as opposed to just fixing or even restoring it. However, it has always had a bit of a stigma attached to it within the interiors industry. There are historical reasons for this – furniture upcycling as we know it really took off from the shabby-chic look which was much imitated, often with poor-quality results. In the minds of the general public this image of upcycling stuck.’

But with our increasing awareness of waste and the need to look after the planet, plus the trend for nostalgia, buying consciously and honouring the past, the design and interiors industries have caught on to the benefits of upcycling, which is spilling over into the mainstream. Upcycling has become a movement, promoted by big brands including IKEA (whose products are ripe for reimagining), paint companies old and new, and designers themselves, as well as emerging professionals who have turned an artistic talent or sustainable lifestyle into a career.

‘I think we’re now starting to see the back of this stigma, with the focus on sustainability meaning that upcycling is being recognised as a skilled craft that has an important role to play in reducing the environmental impact of the interior-design industry,’ Carrie points out. ‘Upcycled furniture can now be seen at international design shows and in leading interiors publications. People are finally beginning to understand!’

Chris Billinghurst, founder of The House of Upcycling which supports professional upcyclers and champions the benefits of buying and commissioning designer upcycling, has seen both her organisation and the industry grow. ‘Interestingly, there are now high street and online stores selling items which emulate the furniture upcycling style, particularly with regard to flat-painted furniture and decoupage, so the professional upcycling industry is becoming a trend-setter in its own right,’ she says. ‘And although upcycling will always be associated with the shabby chic of chalk paint and distressed surfaces, it’s now just a small part of the upcycling landscape as trends continue to evolve.’

Indeed, there’s no single upcycling style; individuality and artistry are key. ‘If anyone can call themselves an artist, I think it’s the same with upcycling – it’s such a personal choice,’ says Marcie K, furniture designer and Reclaim columnist. And with the huge and growing selection of paints and products, the possibilities for creativity are endless, meaning anyone can – and should – have a go at upcycling.

‘It’s becoming a way of life, something we should be doing just as a matter of course, questioning what we send to landfill,’ says Lynne Lambourne, an interior designer with a focus on sustainability and upcycling. ‘Could we make use of an item in another way – stopping ourselves buying new?’ In this way, even if we’re not painting furniture, we can all upcycle, reuse or reimagine older pieces, or items that we already have. It’s really a process that results in reducing waste by creating a new and original item. ‘Upcycling is just creative reuse,’ Lynne continues, ‘taking something you weren’t using in its current form and giving it a new purpose.’

As Chris points out, ‘after a decade of education and discussion and with the increased interest in sustainability, particularly among the interior-design fraternity, upcycling has lost its less-appealing associations and is being awarded the status it deserves.’ Just as we can choose to buy a designer dress, a vintage frock or high-street clothing, so we can decide to commission an upcycled chest of drawers from a skilled artisan, buy a reimagined piece off-the-shelf, or pick up an old table and paint it ourselves.

So what’s next? ‘Art deco, particularly using gold leaf or paint on walnut, remains popular, particularly for drinks cabinets, as do dark colours for painted furniture together with heavily patterned decoupage papers,’ says Chris. ‘We’re also now seeing more artisans turning their hand to other types of upcycling, such as creating lighting, art and home accessories.’ Both Carrie and Marcie agree that we’ll see more bare wood on upcycled pieces rather than covering everything with paint.

Upcycling is no fad and is open to everyone from the professional designer and artist to have-a-go hobbyists. Furniture can become self-expression and, in the midst of both a cost-of-living and climate crisis, reusing existing items is the logical and budget-friendly way to go. Now that’s not too shabby.

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As domestic dwellings have evolved over time, each era is notable by its own particular style, from the graceful high ceilings of Georgian homes to the Edwardian penchant for parquet. Many of these period features remain in homes up and down the country, in varying states of repair. Some are hiding under layers of paint and ad-hoc boxing in, many are taken for granted, while others have sadly been ripped out altogether. But whether you live in a Victorian terrace or a modern new-build, period features can be brought to life or installed to give maximum impact and depth to a space. Here are some of the most favoured features to refine your home.

Fireplaces

There’s no beating a fireplace and surround in a main living room – it gives the space a focal point and anchor. The Victorians had a fireplace in every room, which were first made from marble or slate, but later cast iron, with colourful tiles inset on either side. So if you live in a home from this era it’s likely that a fireplace will remain at least in the sitting room, hiding behind plasterboard in the bedrooms, or sometimes in a hallway too. Homes from other periods would also have had a fireplace – you may be lucky and discover a large inglenook or an art deco piece. If you live in a period home and the fireplaces are missing, very carefully check behind an existing modern fireplace or boarded up chimney breast. You could reveal a gem.

But don’t take a sledgehammer to the wall without first checking that there’s likely to be a fireplace behind it. Do this by either knocking on the wall (a hollow sound suggests there is space behind it, which could indicate a fireplace), checking your survey, which may indicate where fireplaces once were, or if the chimney remains in place count the number of flues, which will correspond with the number of fireplaces.

If the fireplace has been removed, or you’re in a modern home and want to add a focal point to a room, consider installing a period fire surround. Received wisdom has it that you should match the piece to the home’s era, but if you find something that you love, and it fits the proportions of the room and the rest of your scheme, then there’s no reason why you shouldn’t have, say, a Georgian fireplace in a mid-century home.

If this is purely for decoration, then a competent DIYer could do the job. But if it’s a working fireplace you’re after, then it’s vital to consult an expert to ensure that the chimney is clean and unblocked. Poorly maintained old chimneys and fireplaces can produce carbon monoxide, so don’t be tempted to light a fire without being given the all-clear. Also check that you’re permitted to burn solid fuel in your area; eco, smokeless fuel is best.

Top tips

• Once you uncover a fireplace it’s quite likely to be messy, so keep in mind that you’ll need to clean it out, repoint brickwork or install a chimney balloon (if you’re not going to light a fire) to eliminate draughts
• Ensure that a working fireplace is kept clean and the chimney regularly swept
• For a decorative period fireplace, add fireside tools, lights in the grate and a seasonal mantel display for a year-round focal point

Ceiling treatments

Cornicing and ceiling roses add elegance to a room and can turn any space from bland to beautiful. Plaster mouldings have been used throughout ancient history and classical architecture, and many pre-Victorian mouldings in domestic homes were copied from historical examples, with decorative plasterwork used to indicate social hierarchy.

Most period homes will retain their original cornicing – used to disguise where the walls and ceiling meet – although layers of paint could mean it’s not looking the best. If this is the case, a paint-stripping job (always check paint stripper on a small area first) may be in order to reveal the finer details. If the ceiling treatments are damaged – or the ceiling rose is missing – they’re well worth replacing. In this case, it’s better to choose pieces to match the era of your home: so a Victorian terrace will need a simpler, less ornate treatment than a large Georgian property. Also, try to ensure that both the cornice and the rose are from the same period, otherwise they could jar against each other.

You can put up a ceiling rose by drilling into the ceiling with plaster screws and securing it with cornice glue, but rewiring the light back in should be done by a qualified electrician. Adding cornicing to a modern home, or replacing old plasterwork, is a much larger job and will require an experienced builder.

Traditionally ceilings, including plaster mouldings, were painted white. Now, though, everything from inky blue to pink can add impact to a space. Painting the wall a dark colour and the cornice and ceiling a pale hue creates a dramatic effect and makes the ceiling look higher. Or, choose your wall and ceiling colour and pick out the cornicing in a tone in-between for a graduating effect.

Top tips

• Ceiling roses come in a huge number of styles, from pared-back and diminutive to large and ornate. Generally speaking, the higher the ceiling, the more elaborate you can go with
  the rose
• If your roses have been removed, it’s worth asking a neighbour with a similar-era home to see their ceiling treatments, to give you an idea of what was originally installed

Dado and picture rails

These simple additions really enhance a room and instantly add character. Picture rails first became common around the early 1800s and were mounted either about 40cm below the ceiling cornice, or at the same height as the top of the windows or doors. Dado rails originally came about in the Georgian era, when dining chairs were put away from the table when not in use. The wooden dado rail, fixed at around 120cm from the floor, was to protect the wall from being knocked by furniture. Today, while we tend not to use picture rails for our wall art and dado rails serve no practical purpose, both are good ways to make a decorative statement and provide opportunities to use bold colour, wallpaper or panelling either above or below them.

Consider fixing dado rails slightly lower than they would have been originally, as this makes the ceiling look higher. Take your guide from the ceiling height – there’s no set rule, but if you live in a period property and the dado has been removed, then look for bumps in the plasterwork.

Picture and dado rails are simple to glue on with something like No More Nails, but bear in mind that it’s a very precise job that’s hard to rectify if you find your lines aren’t straight.

Pick out your dado or picture rail in white or an accent colour to draw a line between, say, paint and wallpaper, or paint the rails in the same colour as the wall for a contemporary look.

Top tips

• A room with a dado rail requires a lower skirting board
• Choose between a picture or dado rail for a lower-ceilinged room; having both can make it look cluttered

The post The essential guide to period features appeared first on Reclaim Magazine.

An achievable makeover gives a real sense of accomplishment and can make a big impact to the look of your home in just a weekend. The advantage of a small-scale, specific project is that you can have your paint and tools packed away before the working week rolls around again – and you may even have time to fit in a Parkrun or pub lunch while you’re waiting for the paint to dry.

For instant gratification, choose a project that makes a real difference to your quality of life, whether that’s creating a more attractive home office, giving yourself a warmer welcome with a front door refresh, or adding a decorative feature to your living space that will lift your spirits every day.

Give the front door a makeover

Adding instant kerb appeal, painting your front door is such a simple way to transform the look of your property, and give you a boost every time you arrive home. You don’t even have to take the door off its hinges – just make sure you pick a fine, dry day when you won’t need to leave the house, as the door will need to be left open until it’s dry.

First, take off all the door hardware and keep the fittings gathered safely with each item. If you’re planning to replace old fittings with new pieces, you may need to fill the old holes too.

Wash the door thoroughly with diluted washing-up liquid, rinse then dry. Any patches of algae or mould may need a proprietary cleaner to remove them. Next, scrape away any old flaking paint, fill any cracks or holes with wood filler, then sand down the whole door surface to make sure it’s nice and smooth. Wipe the door down with methylated spirits to clean away the dust, and leave to dry.

Use decorator’s tape to cover the hinges and tape newspaper over any glass panels – then you’re ready for the fun part. These days, almost anything goes for front doors so don’t be afraid to express your personal taste – from baby pink to heritage green or sassy scarlet – but just ensure you choose an exterior paint. If you have patches of bare wood, you’ll need to apply a primer first, but if the existing paintwork is in good condition you may be able to progress straight to a topcoat. If you’re going from a dark colour to light, it’s best to apply an undercoat first or you may need several layers. When you’re happy with the finished look, remove any tape while the paint is still wet, and prop the door open to dry.

Put your door hardware back on, or update it with new fittings. Check out the large range of quality door furniture at Broughtons ironmongers, from knockers to letter plates, or for originals reclaimed from period homes go to English Salvage. Finally, add a pretty planter to your doorstep – from spring bulbs to an evergreen bay tree – for a lovely finishing touch.

Add character to your office space

With remote or hybrid working a reality for many of us, the home office has become a permanent fixture. Workspaces range in scale from a purpose-built garden room to a tiny desk squeezed on to the landing, but regardless of how spacious your office is, one of the many joys of working from home is that you can personalise it in a way that inspires and motivates you. Even if you are tucked into a corner of a spare bedroom, with a bit of creativity you can define your workspace with wallpaper or paint, some well-chosen accessories, an elegant desk and chair, and a rug. And even if it’s not a room with a view, you can still ensure you have something lovely to look at, whether it’s a wall mural or hanging plants.

Space-saving accessories such as a slimline desk or folding bureau and wall-mounted shelves are great for a smaller space or an office ‘corner’, and ideal for displaying unique pieces that bring you joy.

Adding feature wallpaper or using a bold shade of paint can add character to your office or nook, and help create a visual transition between business and pleasure each day, something that can often be missing without a commute to create. Painting a feature wall can be simply accomplished in a day, leaving you time to upcycle your wooden desk and chair with paint too. While wallpaper can be a little more time-consuming to hang, the new paste-the-wall varieties make it so much easier to apply. Try Mind the Gap for maximalist patterns with a vintage vibe, or prints designed by contemporary artists at Feathr.

For a few original touches, take a break from DIY and pop out to an antiques market or car-boot sale to pick up some quirky vintage accessories to personalise your revamped workspace.

Transform a window

While replacing a window can be a big, expensive job, giving a neglected frame a spruce up is achievable within a weekend and can make such a difference to the look of your home, inside and out.

If the paintwork is looking tatty, a fresh lick of paint will work wonders. Following the same method as for painting a front door, you’ll need to remove hardware such as latches (if possible), wash your frame, fill any cracks or holes in the wood, and replace any loose or missing putty. Next, prepare for painting by sanding the surfaces and wiping down with methylated spirits, then use decorator’s tape and newspaper to cover the panes of glass before you start to paint. Painting window frames can be fiddly but don’t be tempted to rush it, and don’t forget to give the windowsill and any stone surrounds a fresh coat too.

Adding a seasonal window box elevates your home’s exterior and ensures your views are framed by flowers and foliage. Decorative Garden Antiques has vintage window boxes, or find beautifully handcrafted planters in a range of vintage styles at Garden Requisites. If you’re in London, consider a membership with Living Windows, which will plan, design and maintain seasonal window boxes for your home.

Dressing with plants inside can also help bring the outdoors in – interior windowsills are the perfect place to gather a collection of sun-loving houseplants. A new window treatment can also make a substantial difference. Adding a roller or roman blind in simple linen, a beautiful print or a zingy colour adds instant style while keeping the window – and the room – uncluttered, while curtains are more traditional and create a luxe or cosy feel. For vintage-inspired fabrics for window treatments, F&P Interiors has an extensive collection, or try Jane Clayton.

Create a reading nook

If a room of one’s own for reading and dreaming is an unachievable ideal, perhaps space for a reading nook could be carved out somewhere in your home instead? Sometimes, just finding the right chair can give you the impetus to create the perfect space to relax and enjoy some screen-free time, while an underused corner in the house could be cleared this weekend for your new me-zone.

You don’t need much space for a comfy chair and small side table, so consider the landing, a corner of a rarely used spare bedroom, the space under the stairs, the garden shed, or perhaps think about installing and painting a simple window seat in the living room or kitchen. In an ideal world, a reading nook would be in a room with a view too, but if a space by a window is not possible, think about creating a cosy hideaway in a neglected corner instead, and illuminate the nook with carefully considered task lighting.

Antiques fairs are a great hunting ground for your essential furniture and fittings. Start with a beautiful antique chair (which could be reupholstered) – Vinterior is your go-to for vintage chairs of all styles and eras. Then a little side table with scope for upcycling with paint or decoupage, and accessories such as a footstool and storage for books and magazines, including wall shelving and a rack or basket. Add a beautiful cushion and throw for cosying up, and a pretty coaster for your cuppa too.

Make a hanging branch display

Gathering beautiful finds from nature and making a display is a lovely way to connect with the seasons at any time of year. Lately there’s been a growing trend for creating stylish hanging decorations, using characterful branches as a base. These can vary from extravagant, almost chandelier-like hanging displays, to more discreet wall hangings.

An effective ceiling display can be created with two securely positioned hooks, some thick twine or strong wire, and a beautifully shaped branch – this could be one log or multiple branches. Check you have sufficient clearance height to avoid bumped heads, and then decorate. Fairy lights that run from a battery pack are ideal – look for elegant sets on copper wire or try contemporary bulb or lantern-style lights. Lights4Fun offers lovely decorative lighting options, including some faux branches and foliage with lights attached. You can also add some hanging decorations such as white or silver baubles or glass globes (a simple, neutral colour palette avoids an overly festive effect) and hanging LED candleholders, and entwine with natural materials such as feathers and real – or low maintenance faux – foliage or flowers. Try Sophie Allport for faux foliage, or Cox & Cox for the prettiest dried flower baubles along with faux flowers and stylish vases for displaying foliage.

For a less obtrusive look, or in a room without the space or height to carry off a large hanging display, a simple branch hung horizontally from a pretty hook on the wall with dangling jam jars attached with thick brown twine at varying heights can look so simple and effective, and the jars can then be filled with cut flowers and foliage.

If you don’t want to attach branches to the wall or ceiling, try a simple arrangement of interesting-shaped twigs and small branches – possibly with blossom or buds attached – in a large vase, from which you could also hang decorations or entwine with fairy lights. Remember that simple looks are often more effective, so sticking to one decorative addition may appear more striking.

The post Easy weekend projects to refresh your home appeared first on Reclaim Magazine.

Stools with a drop-in seat are one of the easiest upholstery projects you can tackle and also create a high-impact change, especially if you use a matching paint as well. For this upcycle, I used leftover paint and just one fabric sheet from a Manuel Canovas sample book. Paints can be mixed at B&Q and Leyland to match your fabric for the perfect coordinated look.

Step 1

Tap out your drop-in seat and put to one side. Clean the stool with sugar soap, then sand all areas to give it a good key for the paint to adhere to. Starting with your stool upside down, paint the surface and allow it to dry, then turn the stool the right way up for the second coat (A).
Leave to dry again.

Step 2

Remove the old fabric from the seat pad by using a staple/tack remover or pliers to pull out the staples or tacks (B). If there are any you can’t remove, just hammer them in flush to the wood and cut away the fabric. Replace the webbing and wadding, if needed. I added some extra doubled-over wadding to pad out the old stuffing on my stool (C).

Step 3

Lay your fabric right-side down and position the seat frame upside down on top of it, ensuring it is centralised before you start stapling. Put three staples (or use a hammer and tacks) down one long side, in the middle of your piece of fabric (F). Repeat on the opposite side, making sure you smooth and stretch the fabric. Do the same at both ends.

Step 4

Create neat corners with a butterfly pleat, by pulling the middle point of your fabric diagonally across the frame corners. Staple in the middle, then fold the sides to meet and staple in place (G and H).

Step 5

Cut some muslin, calico or scrap fabric to cover the underside. Tuck the fabric edges under to create a neat finish and staple in place, covering your previous staples (I). Pop the seat back in the frame and admire your stool (J).

The post Beginner’s reupholstery footstool project appeared first on Reclaim Magazine.

These ceramic tiles have coloured patterns that are not a product of the glaze, but are made using different colours of clay, so the pattern is inlaid into the body of the tile and remains as the tile wears down.

‘Encaustic tiles are hugely popular at the moment,’ says Lee Thornley, founder of Bert & May. ‘People are becoming bolder with pattern and colour. We sell antique tiles and new ones that are inspired by our antique finds. A lot of our tiles are sourced from haciendas in central and southern Spain and they can be over 100 years old. They’re extricated from old buildings that are either being destroyed or renovated, and for whatever reason they’re not wanted any more. Sometimes renovators want to swap them for something modern and ghastly instead! Our reclamation people go in and rescue them.’

With rustic aged patinas and gorgeous, faded colours, it’s easy to see why antique encaustic tiles are highly sought-after. Reclaimed pieces are usually only available in small batches so appeal to homeowners who want a ‘unique’ look, and as they can be used on walls and floors they’re perfect for bringing colour and personality into any space. A patchwork composition – a mismatched selection of patterns and colours – can be striking in small spaces.

‘They can be used in so many places – wherever you can imagine – as a splashback behind cookers or mirrors, as feature shower walls or patio floors,’ says Chris Gulson-Brooke of Maitland & Poate, a family-run London business which retrieves and restores old Spanish encaustic tiles. ‘Recently we saw them used for a headboard behind a bed – it looked awesome! We sold some to a café in Balham that used them to about a metre high around the walls to protect them from daily life. They can be sealed and are appropriate to use in all these areas, plus they’re robust and hardwearing.’

Compared to printed porcelain tiles, they have great longevity, too. ‘We liken them to a solid wood floor,’ says Lee. ‘They usually have a 6–8mm layer of colour. A lot of people embrace the aged patina, which grows more beautiful over time – but, if you want to refresh them after a few years, you can actually take a sander to them and sand off 0.5–1mm to remove the top layer and brighten them up a bit.’

Maintenance-wise, encaustic tiles are a solid option, too. ‘Providing the installation guidelines are followed, caring for encaustic tiles is straightforward,’ agrees Lee. ‘You can’t use anything too aggressive on them like bleach, but we recommend sealing tiles with a product called Stain Stop – we find it sinks into the tile and leaves the raw chalky surface intact.’

It’s the texture of encaustic tiles that appeals, as well as the appearance of them. ‘They’re so tactile. When you see one and actually touch it, that’s when you fall in love with them,’ says Lee.

WORDS: ELLIE TENNANT

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Where do you source your brick tiles?

We source our bricks mostly from farm buildings and outhouses in Eastern Europe, where the building is no longer in use and beyond repair, but the bricks are as good as ever. We take the reclaimed bricks and slice them into tiles, creating the Lubelska tile. The bricks have been fired at a very high temperature which makes them incredibly durable as flooring.

Why use reclaimed tiles?

The brick tiles are beautiful. They have a certain rusticity and are unique – they’ve been made by hand, 60 to 80 years ago, from clay made in different batches.

What rooms are these tiles suitable for?

Customers have used them all over their properties, from kitchens and hallways, to living rooms and utilities. The tiles are frost resistant so can be used outdoors too.

What should I consider?

You need to make sure you have a hard surface that the tiles can be laid on, such as a floor that’s already tiled, or a cement floor. You might need a self-levelling compound to smooth out the floor surface before laying the tiles and you need to work out how much height you can give away. You’ll also need grout and adhesive, which we sell. When measuring, bear in mind that you need to order 10 per cent extra for cuts and wastage.

Is this a DIY job?

We’ve had many customers who have done this themselves, helped by our extensive laying guidelines. If you were going to do a whole downstairs, a 100-square-metre floor, it’s a pretty big job, so you might need assistance. But if you were thinking of doing a 4-square- metre bathroom or a fire hearth, for instance, you could do it yourself.

What about the pattern?

You do need to think about the pattern. You could use a brick bond pattern, herringbone or a basket weave – I recommend people dry lay it out before bedding it down on to the adhesive, to decide which pattern they like best. Originally, they were used in country houses and manors, but they work just as well in contemporary settings as in period properties.

How should I care for the tiles?

The tiles do need to be sealed. The modern way of sealing is using a water-based sealer which keeps that natural, matt finish and helps the tiles become water resistant so any spillages can be wiped up and cleaned. I recommend using a good quality sealer, which will last for 8 to 10 years. If you use a poor one, you’ll have to reseal every year.

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