A weekend in Edinburgh

Head to the Scottish capital for outstanding art, vintage shopping and stunning landscape and architecture

Though most attention falls on Edinburgh when the cultural cornucopia of the Festival and Fringe takes the place over in August, Scotland’s capital beguiles any time of year – even winter, when long nights underscore the hazy glow of antique lamps shimmering off its ancient stones, and eerie fog drifts in off the Forth. Plentiful urban chic adds energy to a cityscape of medieval alleys and sweeping Georgian crescents, sturdy hills and secretive nooks.

The stunning Edinburgh Castle is perched on one of the city’s impressive geological upswells overlooking Princes Street. Its oldest buildings date back to the 12th century, while its walls encase sights like the epic 16th-century great hall and Scottish crown jewels. The One O’Clock Gun also blasts from here (almost) every day, giving tourists who don’t know about it a bit of a jolt!

The city is dotted with outstanding galleries and museums too. See the National Gallery of Scotland halfway along Princes Street, and the Scottish National Portrait Gallery. Equally fine is the Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art whose two halves face each other across sculpture-dotted parkland a 15-minute stroll from Princes Street.

Other contemporary art beacons back in the city centre include the Fruitmarket Gallery, Edinburgh University’s Talbot Rice Gallery plus the Ingleby Gallery, housed in an atmospheric 1830s house. Add to these the leading photography showcase that is the Stills Gallery, while The Embassy Gallery draws on links to the highly regarded Edinburgh School of Art to provide an exciting showcase for super-fresh artistic talent.

A trip down to the shoreline gives you a chance to hunt inside Folly Antiques at the bottom of Leith Walk. Take a diversion off Leith Walk to the Leith Mills Shopping Village by the Water of Leith, on the first floor of Edinburgh Antique Centre.

For interesting independent outlets, see Broughton Street, Thistle Street and George Street, as well as Stafford and William Streets – all within a stone’s throw of Princes Street. Also check out Stockbridge – an enclave within 15 minutes’ walk of Princes Street just over the Water of Leith.

A clutch of art dealers are on Dundas Street, where you’ll also find the excellent Unicorn Antiques housed in a beautifully tiled former dairy and trading in eclectic vintage stock for over 50 years.

Edinburgh also has some wonderful green spaces. The 17th-century Royal Botanic Garden, locally known simply as The Botanics, has 70 bucolic acres of horticultural cosmopolitanism that includes the largest collection of Chinese plants outside Asia.

The Meadows is a trail-laced park just south of the city centre. Nearby you’ll also find characterful places for a drink – The Cloisters, fashioned from a Victorian parsonage – as well as one of Britain’s oldest and most atmospheric cinemas, the Cameo, dating back over a century.

Places to eat

• The Scran & Scallie Scandi styling plus Timorous Beasties designs come together at this popular gastropub opened in Stockbridge by Michelin-starred chef Tom Kitchin.
• Leftfield A charming, hideaway neighbourhood bistro, based in the ground floor of an old tenement with views over Bruntsfield Links.

Where to stay

• Hotel du Vin Housed in a former 17th-century asylum, luxury touches with restrained style mark its 47 rooms.
• The Rutland At the west end of Princes Street Gardens, this award-winning 12-room boutique hotel’s Pop-tinged blingy decor belies its Edwardian exterior.

Tips for the first-time visitor

• Meet some of the city’s most memorable former residents on the subterranean medieval streets of The Real Mary King’s Close.
• Bramble is a subterranean hangout on Queen Street decorated with retro tour posters – and previously voted among the World’s 50 Best Bars. Or try The Voodoo Rooms, extravagantly decorated Victorian drinking rooms hidden behind Princes Street.
• Try a boat trip from South Queensferry harbour to visit the 12th-century abbey on Inchcolm Island, nine miles out in the Firth of Forth. See Forth Tours and Maid of the Forth. South Queensferry is a 20-minute train ride from Edinburgh’s Waverley station to Dalmeny station, then 15 minutes’ walk.
• As a grand cinematic alternative to the Cameo, the Dominion is a gorgeous 1930s deco shrine to retro-style moviedom, with super-comfy seating and bags of vintage style.

WORDS: NORMAN MILLER