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A weekend in east Devon

Beer beach © Paul Newman

Read time:

31st January 2024

Explore this beautiful corner of the UK for unspoilt countryside, coastal charm and interiors inspiration galore

Stretching from the west Dorset border at Lyme Regis to just east of Exeter, east Devon is an area of the UK that has it all. There is stunning coastline to explore – including the Jurassic Coast World Heritage Site – as well as pretty towns and villages, plus beautiful inland countryside and a plethora of nature reserves.

Famous for clotted cream and golden butter, parts of east Devon look just like the idyllic illustrations on the packaging of these dairy delights – all rolling hills and verdant valleys where cows graze lazily on luscious green grass.

East Devon countryside © Matt Wilson
East Devon countryside © Matt Wilson

Tips for the first-time visitor

  • STAY at: Glebe House near Colyton, an award-winning guesthouse, restaurant and 15-acre smallholding set in the heart of an area of outstanding natural beauty, overlooking the Coly Valley. Inspired by the Italian ‘agri-turismo’ concept, owners Hugo and Olive Guest have created an English equivalent, where the emphasis is on home-grown food and simple pleasures. Head chef Sam Lomas (who started his career at nearby River Cottage) serves fresh, seasonal produce which is grown on-site in a polytunnel and kitchen garden. There is also an in-house bakery where delicious porridge sourdough is baked daily and there’s even an ageing room for salami production. The overall vibe is luxurious but relaxed. There are super-comfortable beds with handmade mattresses sourced locally from Devon eco-luxe brand Naturalmat, warm and welcoming interiors, an outdoor pool for refreshing swims and plenty of quirky vintage finds to admire in every room. The well-stocked upstairs reading nook is a cosy place to hunker down if the weather isn’t kind, and don’t miss the local sloe gin on the bar menu.
Glebe House, nestled in the Devon countryside © Glebe House
Glebe House, nestled in the Devon countryside © Glebe House
Glebe House, nestled in the Devon countryside © Glebe House
Glebe House, nestled in the Devon countryside © Glebe House
Southleigh Wood cabin at Glebe House © Glebe House
Southleigh Wood cabin at Glebe House © Glebe House
  • EAT at: The River Cottage Kitchen & Store. Located above the celebrated cookery school and famous farmhouse, with lovely views over the Axe Valley, this is the perfect spot to enjoy breakfast, lunch, cakes and drinks. There’s also a shop selling River Cottage organic food and drink products, plus local produce from sustainable growers.
  • SHOP at: Honiton, a market town on the banks of the River Otter, famous for pottery and lace and regarded as the ‘antiques capital’ of the southwest. Don’t miss Fountain Antiques Centre, which has been going since the 1980s and has 40 traders under one roof. In Honiton you’ll also find the award-winning Thelma Hulbert Gallery, where you can enjoy contemporary art and craft exhibitions and events.
The eclectic drawing room at Glebe House © Glebe House
The eclectic drawing room at Glebe House © Glebe House
The Rose Room at Glebe House © Glebe House
The Rose Room at Glebe House © Glebe House
The eclectic drawing room at Glebe House © Glebe House
The eclectic drawing room at Glebe House © Glebe House
A cosy corner in Southleigh Wood cabin at Glebe House © Glebe House
A cosy corner in Southleigh Wood cabin at Glebe House © Glebe House
Pistachio cake at Glebe House © Glebe House
Pistachio cake at Glebe House © Glebe House
Pretty cloakroom interior at Glebe House © Glebe House
Pretty cloakroom interior at Glebe House © Glebe House
  • DRINK at: Lyme Bay Winery, which has guided tasting sessions and cellar door sales. You’ll find English wine, fruit wine, cider, mead, liqueurs and spirits all produced in the beautiful Axe Valley.
  • TRY: Beautiful beds and mattresses at the Naturalmat workshop and showroom at Odhams Wharf on the banks of the River Exe near Topsham. Made from carefully sourced organic and natural materials, the brand’s impressively sustainable mattresses are all handcrafted on-site.
Hand trimming at Naturalmat © Jon Day
Hand trimming at Naturalmat © Jon Day
  • EXPLORE: The East Devon Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty, including the pretty village of Beer, which nestles in Lyme Bay, on the 95-mile-long Jurassic Coast. The shingle beach still boasts a small fleet of working fishing boats. Ottery St Mary is one of the most historic towns in east Devon and well worth a visit – it has many quirky traditions such as an annual ‘Pixie Day’ and a procession of burning tar barrels on Bonfire Night.
WORDS: ELLIE TENNANT
Beer beach © Paul Newman
Beer beach © Paul Newman
Otter Estuary at Budleigh Salterton © Colin Moore
Otter Estuary at Budleigh Salterton © Colin Moore
Ladram Rocks © Justin Harris
Ladram Rocks © Justin Harris

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